Good In the Hood

Situated on the shores of the East River directly across from Midtown Manhattan, the neighborhood of Greenpoint, Brooklyn has experienced quite a dizzying buzz over the last few years. With that buzz has come an increasing number of notable eateries. Yes, my hood of 3+ years now boasts restaurants with star-backed appeal (5 Leaves), down-home local charm (Eat), speak-easy trendiness (Manhattan Inn), and Mediterranean flamboyancy (Lokal). Greenpoint is also home to its very own hip Mexican joint, Papacito's Brooklyn.

Papacito's is the creation of Chef/Owner Cody Utzman, better known as Chopped Champion Chef Cody  and the owner of Brooklyn Standard. At the time of Papacito's opening a little over a year ago, I happened to live directly across the street on Manhattan Avenue. I grew to frequent the place enjoying their industrial yet comfortable back yard, cheap Tecates, and, of course, their fish tacos. Their so-called "Mexican street food" was not bad, but it wasn't mind blowing. In fact, there was one glaring issue that prevented me from loving the place - its inconsistency. One day my food would be excellent, and the next, the food would be crap. This was the trend, not a one-off occurrence. Nevertheless, Papacito's was my trusted neighbor and fish taco provider. Unfortunately, during my stint living mere footsteps away, I neglected to document the Papacito's fish taco experience. The time has come, Chef Cody, to get tickled.

This past Sunday, I stopped in to the newly expanded Papacito's. Previously housed in a rather small space with no direct access to its backyard (only via their kitchen), Papacito's had taken over the space next door that increased their capacity, added a bar, and offered guests a proper entrance to their backyard. Before their expansion, guests would have to enter the backyard via an adjacent street. This was endearing, but not practical. I must admit, however, that I was rather disenchanted with the new setup. Don't get me wrong, I'm elated that Chef Cody and friends are doing well and that they have more room to play with, but the space seemed haphazardly finished and decked out. Yeah, yeah, I know what they say, "keep it simple stupid".

After thoroughly scanning the place, I was now ready to order - two fish tacos, please! Like I said, I am no newbie to Papacito's so I knew what to expect. Within minutes, I had two very appealing beauties sitting before me. Papacito's fish tacos are larger in size than, say, Pinche's or Mercadito's, and come dressed with traditional fish taco toppings - pickled red cabbage, cilantro, onion and white sauce. The grilled tilapia was tender and very fresh, as were the corn tortillas and toppings. This was definitely one of my more memorable trips to Codyville. The little fish papis had enough kick and flavor to bring a smile to my face. My fancy was further tickled, as the fresh house made chips were excelente! Note to folks looking for some smooch action afterwards, the onions and white sauce make a serious dent to your breath. Woof!

Los tacos de pescado...calle style!

Ponte el sombrero, Chef Cody!

El patio (backyard)

In all, Papacito's Brooklyn proved to be a more serious purveyor of fish tacos, but I still feel that they are not in the ranks of the city's best. Until they can prove to offer a consistent and reliable product, they will continue to linger in the middle of the pack. Nevertheless, Papacito's exemplifies charm and modesty, and I am glad that they are in my hood!

Tickle gives Papacito's 3 out of a possible 5 tickles.